Vegan Foods

Shelf Love by Noor Murad and Yotam Ottolenghi


In their latest book, Ottolenghi Test Kitchen: Shelf Love, Noor Murad and Yotam Ottolenghi immerse us in the fascinating world of their test cuisine.

Sweet Potato Shakshuka with Sriracha Butter and Pickled Onions

A far cry from a classic shakshuka, yes, but we’ve found that sweet potatoes provide just the right amount of moisture and weight to serve as the basis for these eggs. Serve this vibrant dish as a weekend brunch; it seems the game.

The new cookbook from Noor Murad and Yotam Ottolenghi. Photo: Elena Heatherwick



Preparation time 20 minutes

cooking time 1 hour 20 minutes

INGREDIENTS

  • 1 kg of sweet potatoes, with the skin on and cleaned
  • 1 small red onion (100g), thinly sliced ​​into rings
  • 2 tablespoons of lemon juice
  • 3 tablespoons of olive oil
  • 150 g coarsely grated matured cheddar cheese
  • 3 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 1 teaspoon of cumin seeds, coarsely crushed with a pestle and mortar
  • 8 medium eggs
  • 25 g unsalted butter
  • ¾ tablespoon of sriracha
  • 2 tablespoons of fresh plucked cilantro leaves, with a stem attached
  • salt and black pepper

METHOD

  1. Preheat the oven to 200C hot air (conventional 220C). Prick the sweet potatoes all over with a fork (about 8 to 10 times) and place them on a medium baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, or until cooked through and softened. Leave to cool and lower the oven temperature to 180 ° C using hot air (200 ° C conventional).
  2. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the onion, 1 tablespoon lemon juice and a pinch of salt and set aside to marinate.
  3. Remove the skins of the cooked potatoes and tear them into pieces of about 4 cm. Transfer the flesh of the potatoes to a large bowl and set aside. Put the skins back on the baking sheet and mix with 1 tablespoon of oil, ¼ teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper. Bake for 8 minutes, or until golden brown and starting to crisp. Let cool and make even more crisp.
  4. Use a fork to mash the flesh of the potato until smooth, then add the cheddar, garlic, cumin, another tablespoon of oil, the remaining tablespoon of lemon juice, 1 teaspoon of salt and a generous grind of pepper, and toss to combine.
  5. Put the remaining tablespoon of oil in a large frying pan, for which you have a lid, and swirl to coat the bottom. Pour the mashed potato mixture into the pan, using your spoon to distribute it evenly. Put on medium-high heat and cook for about 7 minutes, so that the stock begins to brown. Lower the heat to medium and use a spoon to make eight wells in the potato mixture, breaking an egg into each. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper, cover with the lid and cook for 4-5 minutes, turning the pot, or until the whites are set and the yolks are still runny.
  6. While the eggs are cooking, put the butter and sriracha in a small saucepan over medium heat and cook until the butter is melted, whisking constantly to emulsify. Remove the mixture from the heat before it starts to bubble – you don’t want it to split.
  7. When you’re ready, pour the sriracha butter over the eggs, then top with a good handful of crispy potato skins, half the pickled onion, and all the plucked cilantro leaves. Serve right away, with the rest of the potato skins and the pickled onion to eat on the side.

Make it yours:

  • Save time by baking sweet pies in the microwave instead.
  • Use any type of melted cheese and any spice you like for the base.
  • Experiment with other hot sauces, like Tabasco or harissa.

Serves 4

Grilled zucchini with hot yogurt and saffron butter

Preparation time 10 minutes

cooking time 30 minutes

This recipe is inspired by kousa b’laban, a Levantine dish of stuffed zucchini cooked in yogurt. In this simplified version, the yogurt sauce and grilled zucchini are cooked separately, then served with a quick saffron butter to place on top.

It is a bit of an art to cook yogurt without curdling it; stabilizers such as corn flour and egg yolk tend to do the trick, as does cooking yogurt over moderate heat, stirring continuously and warming it gently without boiling. The result: a creamy and tangy sauce, ideal for these zucchini but also with other grilled vegetables, fatty meats or even in sauce on pasta.

INGREDIENTS

  • 30 g unsalted butter
  • ¼ tsp. coarsely crushed saffron threads
  • 4 small, light or regular green zucchini (600 g), heads trimmed lightly and zucchini cut in half lengthwise
  • 2½ tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon of cornstarch
  • 300g Greek yogurt
  • 2 garlic cloves, crushed
  • ½ teaspoon of dried mint
  • ¾ tsp coriander seeds, toasted and roughly crushed with a pestle and mortar
  • 1½ tablespoon of picked mint leaves
  • ½ lemon
  • salt and black pepper

METHOD

  1. Preheat the oven to a high broil level.
  2. Put the butter and saffron in a small saucepan over medium heat. When the butter is melted, let it infuse.
  3. Place the zucchini on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and toss with 2 tablespoons of oil, â…“ teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper. Arrange them cut side up and grill them for 15 to 20 minutes until charred and soft.
  4. Around the last 10 minutes of cooking, prepare the sauce. In a large bowl, whisk together the cornstarch and 3 tbsp of water until smooth, then add the yogurt, garlic, dried mint, remaining ½ tbsp of oil and ½ tbsp. of salt. Whisk to combine, then transfer to a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Cook, stirring continuously, for about 10 minutes, or until mixture thickens slightly and is heated through. Do not let the sauce boil, otherwise it will split.
  5. Transfer the warm yogurt sauce to a plate with a rim and top with zucchini, grilled side up. Cover with saffron butter, then sprinkle with coriander seeds and mint leaves. Squeeze half a lemon and serve immediately.

Make it yours:

  • No saffron? Instead, use a pinch of turmeric.

Serves 2-4

Candied tandoori chickpeas

These chickpeas have had their share of notoriety on Insta for a multitude of reasons. The first being that the simplicity of the dish makes it really attractive: throw it all in a saucepan and slide it into the oven, leaving it to itself (and you to yours). The second being that slow cooking the chickpeas in oil without adding liquid makes them super soft, allowing all the aromatics to break down in the oil. Finally, this dish can easily be prepared ahead of time and served later; it only gets better with time. Replace Greek yogurt with a dairy-free alternative for a completely vegan meal and serve with rice.

Preparation time 25 minutes

cooking time 1 hour 20 minutes

INGREDIENTS

  • 2 x 400g cans of chickpeas, drained
  • 11 garlic cloves, peeled, 10 whole and 1 crushed
  • 30g fresh ginger, peeled and julienned
  • 400g cherry tomatoes
  • 3 red peppers, sweet or spicy, a slit cut lengthwise
  • 1 tablespoon of tomato paste
  • 2 teaspoons of cumin seeds, coarsely crushed with a pestle and mortar
  • 2 teaspoons of coriander seeds, roughly crushed with a pestle and mortar
  • ½ teaspoon ground turmeric
  • ½ teaspoon of chili flakes
  • 2 teaspoons of powdered Kashmiri red pepper
  • 1 teaspoon of powdered sugar
  • 200 ml olive oil
  • 180g Greek yogurt
  • 15g mint leaves, picked
  • 30 g coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
  • 2-3 limes, squeezed, to make 1 tablespoon and the rest cut into wedges for serving
  • salt

METHOD

  1. Preheat the oven to 150C hot air (170C conventional)
  2. Put the chickpeas, whole garlic cloves, ginger, tomatoes, peppers, tomato paste, spices, sugar, oil and 1 teaspoon of salt in a large sauté pan, for which you have a lid, and toss to combine. Cover with the lid, place in the oven and cook for 75 minutes, stirring halfway through cooking, until the aromatics have softened and the tomatoes have broken down well.
  3. Meanwhile, put the yogurt, mint, fresh cilantro, lime juice, crushed garlic and ¼ teaspoon of salt in a food processor and blend until smooth and the herbs are finely. chopped.
  4. Serve the chickpeas straight from the pan, with the yogurt and lime wedges on the side.

Make it yours:

  • Potted butter beans would be great here! A single gram for a gram swap.
  • No Kashmiri pepper powder? Instead, use an equal amount of paprika.

Serves 4

This is an edited excerpt from Ottolenghi test kitchen: shelf love by Noor Murad and Yotam Ottolenghi (Ebury Press). Photograph by Elena Heatherwick. RRP $ 49.99. Buy now